Name: Power Steering Rack For Ford F-100 2.5L L4 1998 Ford F-100 3.0L V6 1998 22-237
Brand: Truck-carclub
SKU: 473738906538
Price: 97.0 USD
Availability: InStock
Rating: 3.635 (239 reviews)

Product Description: Steering gear,also called steering gear, is the most important part of automobile steering system. Power steering (PAS) or steering assist system helps drivers steer by augmenting steering effort of the steering wheel. Power steering rack and pinion is the most important part for vehicle swerving and security assurance. It converts the rotational motion of the steering wheel into the linear motion needed to turn the wheels and provides a gear reduction, thus making it easier to turn the wheels. Tech Info: Power Steering Rack For Ford F-100 2.5L L4 1998 Ford F-100 3.0L V6 1998 22-237 Product Description: Steering gear ,also called steering gear, is the most important part of automobile steering system. Power steering (PAS) or steering assist system helps drivers steer by augmenting steering effort of the steering wheel. Power steering rack and pinion is the most important part for vehicle swerving and security assurance. It converts the rotational motion of the steering wheel into the linear motion needed to turn the wheels and provides a gear reduction, thus making it easier to turn the wheels. Tech Info: Casting Material : Steel/Aluminum Package Contents : Rack and Pinion, Installation Kit, Instruction Sheet Product Condition : Remanufactured Number of Mounting Holes : 2 Hose Port Type : O-Ring Tie Rod Ends Included : Inner Total Turns Lock To Lock : 4 Pressure Port Thread Size : M16 x 1.5 Return Port Thread Size : M16 x 1.5 Rack Length (mm) : 1136.65 Thread Length (In) : 2.57 Thread Length (mm) : 65.15 Distance Between Mounting Holes (in) : 11.25 Distance Between Mounting Holes (mm) : 285.75 Steering Rack Color : Black Input Shaft Diameter (in) : 0.73 Input Shaft Diameter (mm) : 18.42 Input Shaft Length (in) : 1.50 Input Shaft Length (mm) : 38.10 Rack Length (in) : 44.75 Fits: 2011 Ford Ranger Base Cab & Chassis 2-Door 2.3L 140Cu. In. l4 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated 2011 Ford Ranger Sport Extended Cab Pickup 2-Door 4.0L 245Cu. In. V6 GAS SOHC Naturally Aspirated 2011 Ford Ranger Sport Extended Cab Pickup 4-Door 4.0L 245Cu. In. V6 GAS SOHC Naturally Aspirated 2011 Ford Ranger XL Crew Cab Pickup 4-Door 2.3L 140Cu. In. l4 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated 2011 Ford Ranger XL Extended Cab Pickup 2-Door 2.3L 140Cu. In. l4 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated 2011 Ford Ranger XL Extended Cab Pickup 2-Door 4.0L 245Cu. In. V6 GAS SOHC Naturally Aspirated 2011 Ford Ranger XL Standard Cab Pickup 2-Door 2.3L 140Cu. In. l4 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated 2011 Ford Ranger XL Standard Cab Pickup 2-Door 4.0L 245Cu. In. V6 GAS SOHC Naturally Aspirated 2011 Ford Ranger XLT Crew Cab Pickup 4-Door 2.3L 140Cu. In. l4 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated 2011 Ford Ranger XLT Extended Cab Pickup 2-Door 2.3L 140Cu. In. l4 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated 2011 Ford Ranger XLT Extended Cab Pickup 2-Door 4.0L 245Cu. In. V6 GAS SOHC Naturally Aspirated 2011 Ford Ranger XLT Extended Cab Pickup 4-Door 2.3L 140Cu. In. l4 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated 2011 Ford Ranger XLT Extended Cab Pickup 4-Door 4.0L 245Cu. In. V6 GAS SOHC Naturally Aspirated 2011 Ford Ranger XLT Standard Cab Pickup 2-Door 2.3L 140Cu. In. l4 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated 2011 Ford Ranger XLT Standard Cab Pickup 2-Door 4.0L 245Cu. In. V6 GAS SOHC Naturally Aspirated 2010 Ford Ranger Base Cab & Chassis 2-Door 2.3L 140Cu. In. l4 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated 2010 Ford Ranger Limited Crew Cab Pickup 4-Door 2.3L 140Cu. In. l4 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated 2010 Ford Ranger Sport Extended Cab Pickup 2-Door 4.0L 245Cu. In. V6 GAS SOHC Naturally Aspirated 2010 Ford Ranger Sport Extended Cab Pickup 4-Door 4.0L 245Cu. In. V6 GAS SOHC Naturally Aspirated 2010 Ford Ranger XL Crew Cab Pickup 4-Door 2.3L 140Cu. In. l4 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated Symptoms of Power Steering Rack Failure You turn the steering wheel to go down the street, and the wheel is extremely stiff. You open the hood and look for an obvious problem. The power steering belt is still there, and the power steering is full. The power steering fluid is black as night, but it is full. The belt looks a little worn, and it's past the four-year power steering belt replacement interval. So you put a new one on. A few days later it happens again. This is what's known in the trade as "morning sickness." It doesn't get better, only worse. The cause is normal wear and tear on the internal parts of the power steering rack, or "the rack" as we call it. The black power steering fluid is black because of metal worn from the inside of the rack and had become like sandpaper, eating away at the rack. So you will need to replace the power steering rack and flush the power steering system to get rid of all the old fluid. Can I Replace the Power Steering Rack Myself? Replacing a power steering rack can be an easy job on some vehicles, rear wheel drive vehicles for example, or it can be most difficult and nasty in others. So how do you know if yours is an easy or hard one? Reading the removal procedure in a service manual will tell you what's involved, and you can decide if it is within your skill level. Be advised, however, that the manual may not be entirely accurate in that it will tell you to do something you may not have to do. For instance, on one Oldsmobile the book says you have to support the engine and lower the sub-frame by, at least, three inches. Well maybe you do, and maybe you don't. You can most often twist and turn and jiggle it out through the wheel well opening without too much difficulty. But read the procedure first. It will give you torque specifications, what, if any, nuts and bolts need to be replaced and if there are any "O" rings that you need to replace. Before taking anything apart. Look at the new rack. Take note of mounting bolt holes and the high pressure and return line fittings. Then jack up the X and support it with jack stands. Never go under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Take a look at where the mounting bolts are, where the steering column coupling is and the power steering lines. After looking at what the job entails, you may decide it is beyond your skills and have a shop do the job. What You Will Need ？ Jack Jack stands Wrenches Ratchet and socket set with extensions Screwdrivers Pliers or vise grips Hammer Wire brush Tie rod separator or ball joint fork Engine support fixture (If required) Power steering filter Power steering fluid Automatic transmission fluid New power steering rack Latex gloves (Optional) Note: Before You Start Follow these instructions Xefully. Read and be sure you understand them before you begin. Gather together all of your tools and supplies before you begin. Allow plenty of time to do the job so you don't have to hurry. Remember that these are general instructions. For more detailed instructions about your specific vehicle, consult an appropriate repair manual. Beware of hot objects, sharp instruments, and hazardous materials. Don't substitute tools unless you're sure you won't compromise either your safety or the performance of your vehicle. Never work on a vehicle that is only supported by a jack. Put the X on jack stands to support it while you work. Work on a solid, level surface. Never jack a X up on dirt or grass. Check for any fluid leaks or cracked power steering lines. Replace them as necessary. How to Replace a Power Steering Rack? Feel you're up to it? Are you ready to get started? Then let's do it! Put the wheels in a straight-ahead position. The steering wheel should be in the center position. Remove the key from the ignition and make sure the steering wheel is locked. You do not want the steering wheel to turn while removing the rack. Doing so will make it possible for the spiral cable in the steering wheel to unwind and become useless. Crack loose all the wheel lug nuts Raise and support the vehicle with approved jack stands. Remove both front wheels. Remove the Steering Shaft Coupler Outer Seal and unbolt the upper pinch bolt on the Steering Shaft Coupler assembly. Detach the outer tie rod ends. You may need to use a special tie rod end puller to get them off. You can rent one at the local rental store. Most times a sharp rap with a BFH on the end of the tie rod mount will shock it loose. Do not hit the tie rod end itself. Remove any parts required to gain access to the rack mounting bolts, lines and steering coupling. Depending on accessibility, at this point, you can remove the power steering rack mounting bolts, or crack the power steering high pressure and return lines. Depending on accessibility, at this point, you can remove the power steering rack mounting bolts, or crack the power steering high pressure and return lines. It may be easier to get a wrench to swing on a power steering line fitting once you've unbolted the rack and moved it a bit. Also, reattaching the lines may be easier before the new rack is bolted in place. Place a drain pan under the vehicle and remove the hydraulic power steering pressure hose and power steering return hose from the power steering rack. Now comes the fun part, twist and turn and jiggle it out through one of the wheel well openings. Make sure the kids are in the house because certain words will be necessary to coax the rack out and they are not words little ears should hear. If the new rack has new tie rod ends, measure the overall length of the old rack and tie rod assembly. Set the overall length of the new assembly to this same dimension by twisting the tie rod ends on their threads. Keep the rack centered and split the overlap difference between the left and right rod ends as you do this, or the steering wheel will be off-center when you're done. If you are reusing the old tie rod ends, crack the lock nuts loose. Count how many full turns it takes to remove the tie rod ends. Center the new rack and install tie rod ends the same number of turns on the new rack. Again, check the overall length and split the difference. Install the new rack using the same words you used to get it out. Reconnect the power steering lines, using new "O" rings, if required. Usually, the high-pressure line uses a slightly larger "O" ring so be Xeful not to mix them up. Reconnect the Steering Shaft Coupler assembly and bolt the rack back into place. Reattach the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles. Use new cotter pins for the castellated nuts; never reuse the old cotter pins. Put the wheels back on and torque the lug nuts to specifications. Remove the return line from the power steering pump and place the end into a bucket. Fill the power steering pump and start the engine until clean fluid comes out of the return hose. You may be able to install an inline filter in the return line to protect the new rack. I have known guys who have used fuel filters for this purpose. Have the front end aligned to reset the toe-in adjustment to specification or the vehicle will handle poorly and wear out the tire quickly. Bleeding The Power Steering System The final step is bleeding the trapped air out of the system. Fill the reservoir, start and idle the engine. Turn the steering wheel back and forth stop to stop. Just touch the stop, do not hold it there, or you may damage the power steering pump. Do this 10 to 15 times. Power steering fluid that is a tan color or has a beer head contains air. Turn the engine off and let it sit 15 minutes or longer. Top off the power steering fluid and start the engine again. Repeat until the fluid looks normal. And that's it. Figure on the job taking the better part of a day, depending on the type of installation. you would set aside a weekend just in case you run into problems. Item Specifics Brand Truck-carclub Manufacturer Part Number T16549210D Type Rack & Pinion Complete Unit,Steering Rack,Steering Gear Performance Part Yes Installation method Performance/Custom Transmission Type Automatic Material High Quality Steel Surface Finish Polished, Rust Protected Manufacturer Warranty 3 Years Vintage Part Yes Fitment Type Direct Replacement Rack Type Hydraulic Greasable or Sealed YES Other Part Number Steering gear Rack Material corrosion and rust prevention Note Backed by satisfying after-sales service Advantage Rotate quickly and normal position Interchange Part Number 22-237,251A Superseded Part Number F87Z3L547GA OE/OEM Part Number rack replacement kit,rack and pinion,power rack parts OE Number Power Steering Rack,Steering Rack and Pinion Sub Type Rack and Pinion Assembly, Rack and Pinion Rack Gear Package Dust plug Universal Fitment No Itment Note Top performance For long service life Mounting Hardware Included As the picture Fits MAZDA B3000 3.0L V6 1998,MAZDA B4000 4.0L V6 1999 For MAZDA B2500 2.5L L4 1998,FORD ELECTRIC 1998 Payment WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov. 1.We only accept PayPal Shipping 1. Orders processed within 24 hours of payment verification. 2. We only ship to confirmed PAYPAL addresses. Your PAYPAL address must match your Shipping address. 3. If you have not received your shipment within 15 days from payment , please contact us. We will track the shipment and get back to you as soon as possible with a reply. Our goal is customer satisfaction! Returns * We only warranty cost of parts. Any installation or other fees are non-refundable. * 20% restocking fee will be applied if returned item is not in brand new condition. * Buyer responsible to pay for shipping charges if 1. no information what is wrong with item 2. vehicle year/make/mode/trim is not in the compatible charts 3. wrong position/color choosen 4. no longer need 5. don't like 6. find better price * Items that have been installed or altered are non-returnable but it must be reported to us immediately. Contact Us We treat each buyer with a sincere heart, I believe our sincere service , excellent quality of goods will win your trust and support, you may contact us via message and we will reply to you within 24 hours from Monday to Saturday.(Excluding local holidays) DESCRIPTION PAYMENT SHIPPING RETURN POLICY CONTACT US Shop Category Store Home sensor Fuel Shut Off Shutdown Solenoi TRANSMISSION OIL FILTER Oil Fuel Hose Catalytic Converter alternator starter rack drive shaft stator rectifier engine mount Parking Sensor Other Hot Item Alternator 110 Amp for 2003 2004 2005-2008 Infiniti FX35 3.5L V6 23100-CD010 USD 107.95 For Honda Motorcycle Silicon Rectifier Diode Electric Start 31700-124-003 S3H-02 USD 8.12 For 2008-20011 Infiniti EX35 2009-2010 M35 For 2007-2009 Nissan 350Z Alternator USD 114.20 For 2008-2012 Honda Accord V6 3.5L Silver 130 Amp Alternator AND0483 VND0483 USD 96.99 SDR0290 Starter Motor For 2003 2004 2005 2006 Nissan Sentra L4 1.8L 23300-8U30A USD 82.10 New List Item Catalytic Converters EPA For 2011-2018 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.6L Bank 1 & Bank 2 USD 187.32 2Pcs Catalytic Converter 99306HM For Ford F-150 4.6L 5.4L V8 2.5" Inlet & Outlet USD 93.66 EPA Exhaust Catalytic Converters for 2007 - 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5L Direct Fit USD 202.88 1X Universal Fit Catalytic Converter Stainless Steel 2.25 inch Intet / Outet EPA USD 56.87 Manifold Catalytic Converter for Ford Ranger 2004-2006 3.0L EPA Approved Y pipe USD 219.75 Help & Info Payment Policy Shipping Policy Return Policy FAQ About Us Power Steering Rack For Ford F-100 2.5L L4 1998 Ford F-100 3.0L V6 1998 22-237 Product Description: Steering gear ,also called steering gear, is the most important part of automobile steering system. Power steering (PAS) or steering assist system helps drivers steer by augmenting steering effort of the steering wheel. Power steering rack and pinion is the most important part for vehicle swerving and security assurance. It converts the rotational motion of the steering wheel into the linear motion needed to turn the wheels and provides a gear reduction, thus making it easier to turn the wheels. Tech Info: Casting Material : Steel/Aluminum Package Contents : Rack and Pinion, Installation Kit, Instruction Sheet Product Condition : Remanufactured Number of Mounting Holes : 2 Hose Port Type : O-Ring Tie Rod Ends Included : Inner Total Turns Lock To Lock : 4 Pressure Port Thread Size : M16 x 1.5 Return Port Thread Size : M16 x 1.5 Rack Length (mm) : 1136.65 Thread Length (In) : 2.57 Thread Length (mm) : 65.15 Distance Between Mounting Holes (in) : 11.25 Distance Between Mounting Holes (mm) : 285.75 Steering Rack Color : Black Input Shaft Diameter (in) : 0.73 Input Shaft Diameter (mm) : 18.42 Input Shaft Length (in) : 1.50 Input Shaft Length (mm) : 38.10 Rack Length (in) : 44.75 Fits: 2011 Ford Ranger Base Cab & Chassis 2-Door 2.3L 140Cu. In. l4 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated 2011 Ford Ranger Sport Extended Cab Pickup 2-Door 4.0L 245Cu. In. V6 GAS SOHC Naturally Aspirated 2011 Ford Ranger Sport Extended Cab Pickup 4-Door 4.0L 245Cu. In. V6 GAS SOHC Naturally Aspirated 2011 Ford Ranger XL Crew Cab Pickup 4-Door 2.3L 140Cu. In. l4 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated 2011 Ford Ranger XL Extended Cab Pickup 2-Door 2.3L 140Cu. In. l4 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated 2011 Ford Ranger XL Extended Cab Pickup 2-Door 4.0L 245Cu. In. V6 GAS SOHC Naturally Aspirated 2011 Ford Ranger XL Standard Cab Pickup 2-Door 2.3L 140Cu. In. l4 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated 2011 Ford Ranger XL Standard Cab Pickup 2-Door 4.0L 245Cu. In. V6 GAS SOHC Naturally Aspirated 2011 Ford Ranger XLT Crew Cab Pickup 4-Door 2.3L 140Cu. In. l4 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated 2011 Ford Ranger XLT Extended Cab Pickup 2-Door 2.3L 140Cu. In. l4 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated 2011 Ford Ranger XLT Extended Cab Pickup 2-Door 4.0L 245Cu. In. V6 GAS SOHC Naturally Aspirated 2011 Ford Ranger XLT Extended Cab Pickup 4-Door 2.3L 140Cu. In. l4 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated 2011 Ford Ranger XLT Extended Cab Pickup 4-Door 4.0L 245Cu. In. V6 GAS SOHC Naturally Aspirated 2011 Ford Ranger XLT Standard Cab Pickup 2-Door 2.3L 140Cu. In. l4 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated 2011 Ford Ranger XLT Standard Cab Pickup 2-Door 4.0L 245Cu. In. V6 GAS SOHC Naturally Aspirated 2010 Ford Ranger Base Cab & Chassis 2-Door 2.3L 140Cu. In. l4 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated 2010 Ford Ranger Limited Crew Cab Pickup 4-Door 2.3L 140Cu. In. l4 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated 2010 Ford Ranger Sport Extended Cab Pickup 2-Door 4.0L 245Cu. In. V6 GAS SOHC Naturally Aspirated 2010 Ford Ranger Sport Extended Cab Pickup 4-Door 4.0L 245Cu. In. V6 GAS SOHC Naturally Aspirated 2010 Ford Ranger XL Crew Cab Pickup 4-Door 2.3L 140Cu. In. l4 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated Symptoms of Power Steering Rack Failure You turn the steering wheel to go down the street, and the wheel is extremely stiff. You open the hood and look for an obvious problem. The power steering belt is still there, and the power steering is full. The power steering fluid is black as night, but it is full. The belt looks a little worn, and it's past the four-year power steering belt replacement interval. So you put a new one on. A few days later it happens again. This is what's known in the trade as "morning sickness." It doesn't get better, only worse. The cause is normal wear and tear on the internal parts of the power steering rack, or "the rack" as we call it. The black power steering fluid is black because of metal worn from the inside of the rack and had become like sandpaper, eating away at the rack. So you will need to replace the power steering rack and flush the power steering system to get rid of all the old fluid. Can I Replace the Power Steering Rack Myself? Replacing a power steering rack can be an easy job on some vehicles, rear wheel drive vehicles for example, or it can be most difficult and nasty in others. So how do you know if yours is an easy or hard one? Reading the removal procedure in a service manual will tell you what's involved, and you can decide if it is within your skill level. Be advised, however, that the manual may not be entirely accurate in that it will tell you to do something you may not have to do. For instance, on one Oldsmobile the book says you have to support the engine and lower the sub-frame by, at least, three inches. Well maybe you do, and maybe you don't. You can most often twist and turn and jiggle it out through the wheel well opening without too much difficulty. But read the procedure first. It will give you torque specifications, what, if any, nuts and bolts need to be replaced and if there are any "O" rings that you need to replace. Before taking anything apart. Look at the new rack. Take note of mounting bolt holes and the high pressure and return line fittings. Then jack up the X and support it with jack stands. Never go under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Take a look at where the mounting bolts are, where the steering column coupling is and the power steering lines. After looking at what the job entails, you may decide it is beyond your skills and have a shop do the job. What You Will Need ？ Jack Jack stands Wrenches Ratchet and socket set with extensions Screwdrivers Pliers or vise grips Hammer Wire brush Tie rod separator or ball joint fork Engine support fixture (If required) Power steering filter Power steering fluid Automatic transmission fluid New power steering rack Latex gloves (Optional) Note: Before You Start Follow these instructions Xefully. Read and be sure you understand them before you begin. Gather together all of your tools and supplies before you begin. Allow plenty of time to do the job so you don't have to hurry. Remember that these are general instructions. For more detailed instructions about your specific vehicle, consult an appropriate repair manual. Beware of hot objects, sharp instruments, and hazardous materials. Don't substitute tools unless you're sure you won't compromise either your safety or the performance of your vehicle. Never work on a vehicle that is only supported by a jack. Put the X on jack stands to support it while you work. Work on a solid, level surface. Never jack a X up on dirt or grass. Check for any fluid leaks or cracked power steering lines. Replace them as necessary. How to Replace a Power Steering Rack? Feel you're up to it? Are you ready to get started? Then let's do it! Put the wheels in a straight-ahead position. The steering wheel should be in the center position. Remove the key from the ignition and make sure the steering wheel is locked. You do not want the steering wheel to turn while removing the rack. Doing so will make it possible for the spiral cable in the steering wheel to unwind and become useless. Crack loose all the wheel lug nuts Raise and support the vehicle with approved jack stands. Remove both front wheels. Remove the Steering Shaft Coupler Outer Seal and unbolt the upper pinch bolt on the Steering Shaft Coupler assembly. Detach the outer tie rod ends. You may need to use a special tie rod end puller to get them off. You can rent one at the local rental store. Most times a sharp rap with a BFH on the end of the tie rod mount will shock it loose. Do not hit the tie rod end itself. Remove any parts required to gain access to the rack mounting bolts, lines and steering coupling. Depending on accessibility, at this point, you can remove the power steering rack mounting bolts, or crack the power steering high pressure and return lines. Depending on accessibility, at this point, you can remove the power steering rack mounting bolts, or crack the power steering high pressure and return lines. It may be easier to get a wrench to swing on a power steering line fitting once you've unbolted the rack and moved it a bit. Also, reattaching the lines may be easier before the new rack is bolted in place. Place a drain pan under the vehicle and remove the hydraulic power steering pressure hose and power steering return hose from the power steering rack. Now comes the fun part, twist and turn and jiggle it out through one of the wheel well openings. Make sure the kids are in the house because certain words will be necessary to coax the rack out and they are not words little ears should hear. If the new rack has new tie rod ends, measure the overall length of the old rack and tie rod assembly. Set the overall length of the new assembly to this same dimension by twisting the tie rod ends on their threads. Keep the rack centered and split the overlap difference between the left and right rod ends as you do this, or the steering wheel will be off-center when you're done. If you are reusing the old tie rod ends, crack the lock nuts loose. Count how many full turns it takes to remove the tie rod ends. Center the new rack and install tie rod ends the same number of turns on the new rack. Again, check the overall length and split the difference. Install the new rack using the same words you used to get it out. Reconnect the power steering lines, using new "O" rings, if required. Usually, the high-pressure line uses a slightly larger "O" ring so be Xeful not to mix them up. Reconnect the Steering Shaft Coupler assembly and bolt the rack back into place. Reattach the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles. Use new cotter pins for the castellated nuts; never reuse the old cotter pins. Put the wheels back on and torque the lug nuts to specifications. Remove the return line from the power steering pump and place the end into a bucket. Fill the power steering pump and start the engine until clean fluid comes out of the return hose. You may be able to install an inline filter in the return line to protect the new rack. I have known guys who have used fuel filters for this purpose. Have the front end aligned to reset the toe-in adjustment to specification or the vehicle will handle poorly and wear out the tire quickly. Bleeding The Power Steering System The final step is bleeding the trapped air out of the system. Fill the reservoir, start and idle the engine. Turn the steering wheel back and forth stop to stop. Just touch the stop, do not hold it there, or you may damage the power steering pump. Do this 10 to 15 times. Power steering fluid that is a tan color or has a beer head contains air. Turn the engine off and let it sit 15 minutes or longer. Top off the power steering fluid and start the engine again. Repeat until the fluid looks normal. And that's it. Figure on the job taking the better part of a day, depending on the type of installation. you would set aside a weekend just in case you run into problems. Payment WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov. 1.We only accept PayPal Shipping 1. Orders processed within 24 hours of payment verification. 2. We only ship to confirmed PAYPAL addresses. Your PAYPAL address must match your Shipping address. 3. If you have not received your shipment within 15 days from payment , please contact us. We will track the shipment and get back to you as soon as possible with a reply. Our goal is customer satisfaction! Returns * We only warranty cost of parts. Any installation or other fees are non-refundable. * 20% restocking fee will be applied if returned item is not in brand new condition. * Buyer responsible to pay for shipping charges if 1. no information what is wrong with item 2. vehicle year/make/mode/trim is not in the compatible charts 3. wrong position/color choosen 4. no longer need 5. don't like 6. find better price * Items that have been installed or altered are non-returnable but it must be reported to us immediately. Contact Us We treat each buyer with a sincere heart, I believe our sincere service , excellent quality of goods will win your trust and support, you may contact us via message and we will reply to you within 24 hours from Monday to Saturday.(Excluding local holidays) All rights reserved.